A freshly painted concrete step with a smooth, gloss finish is more slippery than the bare concrete surface it replaced, especially when wet. Paint fills the micro-texture of the concrete surface, bridging over the small aggregate particles and pore openings that provide grip under foot traffic. The result can be a surface with a lower coefficient of friction than the original substrate. On a set of exterior stairs that collects rain, morning dew, or leaf litter, this is a safety problem that shows up the first time someone rushes down the steps in rubber soles on a wet morning. Slip resistance is not an afterthought on stair painting. It should be the first design decision in the coating system.

Anti-Slip Additives for Exterior Step Paint

Two categories of anti-slip additive are used in exterior step coatings, and the right choice depends on the coating type being applied.

H&C SharkGrip is the most commonly specified anti-slip additive for water-based exterior porch and step coatings. SharkGrip uses micronized polypropylene particles, sized at approximately 40 to 60 microns, which is fine enough to stay suspended in thin-film coatings without settling to the bottom of the can. The application rate is 3.2 ounces per gallon of topcoat. Shake the additive thoroughly before opening and mix it into the paint completely before application. At this concentration, the surface texture produced is visible and tactile without being abrasive to skin contact.

For the best combination of slip resistance and surface appearance, apply SharkGrip in the first coat and apply a clean topcoat without additive as the second coat. This approach embeds the texture particles in the first film while the second coat provides a more uniform color and sheen on top. Maximum slip resistance is achieved by adding SharkGrip to both coats, but the appearance is rougher and requires more effort to keep clean.

SharkGrip does not work effectively in thick-film systems such as 100 percent solids epoxy or polyurea. The particle size is too small relative to the film thickness. The particles sink through the wet coating before it cures and end up at the bottom of the film rather than at the surface where they provide texture. For thick epoxy systems, use larger grit products such as Proline Dura-Grip, NewLook Gription, or Increte Shur-Grip, which use polymer or aluminum oxide particles sized appropriately for thick-film applications.

Rust-Oleum EPOXYShield anti-skid additive is formulated specifically for use with Rust-Oleum’s EPOXYShield garage floor coating system and works at an application rate of approximately 3.4 ounces per kit. It is a convenient option when using the complete Rust-Oleum system on concrete steps, as product compatibility is assured.

Sand-based anti-slip additives are an older approach still used in some applications. Standard fine silica sand can be broadcast onto a wet paint surface and then overcoated after the first coat cures. Sand creates excellent grip but can be harsh against bare skin, holds moisture in the texture after rain, and can abrade shoe soles over time. Sand-based textures also trap dirt in the gaps between particles, making the surface harder to clean. Polymer-based additives like SharkGrip provide comparable slip resistance with better aesthetics and easier maintenance.

The coefficient of friction standard for walking surfaces is a value of 0.5 or greater under OSHA guidelines for general industry floors and is commonly cited as the practical target for exterior stairs. SharkGrip-treated surfaces at the specified concentration typically achieve COF values above this threshold under both dry and wet conditions when applied over clean, prepared substrates.

Choosing Between Porch Paint and Concrete Coating for Steps

Not all exterior step paints are the same product, and the distinction matters for durability. Porch and floor enamel, concrete coatings, and masonry paint are different product categories with different performance characteristics on steps.

Porch and floor enamel is a 100 percent acrylic paint formulated specifically for horizontal surfaces that receive foot traffic. It has higher pigment concentration and a harder film than standard wall paint, which would wear rapidly under foot scuffing. For wood porch steps or composite wood decking stairs, 100 percent acrylic porch enamel is the appropriate topcoat. These coatings dry to allow light foot traffic in 24 to 48 hours and reach full cure in seven days. Full furniture load or heavy traffic should wait until the seven-day cure mark.

Concrete coating systems, including water-based epoxy products from Rust-Oleum and Quikrete, are designed for poured concrete and masonry steps. They bond chemically to the concrete surface after etching preparation and produce a harder, more abrasion-resistant film than standard porch enamel. The preparation requirement is more demanding: concrete must be etched with muriatic acid or DryLok Etch to create a surface profile that allows the epoxy to bond. Without etching, epoxy coatings delaminate from smooth concrete under foot traffic within a season.

Behr Premium Concrete and Masonry paint is a standard latex masonry paint suitable for concrete steps where the durability requirements are moderate. It does not require the extensive preparation of a true epoxy system and is appropriate for residential steps with normal foot traffic. Coverage is approximately 100 to 200 square feet per gallon on rough concrete, depending on surface texture.

For heavily damaged or cracked concrete steps where the surface is not level and has significant voids, Behr Premium Deck Over or Cabot Deck Correct are resurfacing products that fill minor surface voids and level the step face before topcoating. These thick, self-leveling materials are not paint; they are more like a skim coat that creates a new wearing surface. Apply the resurfacer, allow it to cure, then apply a topcoat with anti-slip additive.

Surface Prep for Wood, Concrete, and Metal Outdoor Stairs

Each stair substrate requires a different preparation sequence, and applying the right prep for the material is the primary determinant of how long the coating holds.

For concrete steps, the preparation sequence is clean, etch, prime, then coat. Start by cleaning with a TSP substitute solution at one quarter cup per gallon to remove oil, grease, and contamination. Rinse completely. Allow to dry 24 to 48 hours. Check for moisture by taping plastic sheeting flat against the concrete and leaving it for 24 hours. If condensation forms under the plastic, the concrete has moisture vapor pressure that will prevent coating adhesion. This is common on concrete slabs in contact with ground moisture and requires a moisture vapor barrier coating before the decorative finish.

Etch smooth concrete with muriatic acid or DryLok Etch to achieve a surface profile similar to 150-grit sandpaper. Muriatic acid requires full protective equipment: eye protection with side shields, chemical-resistant gloves, and protective clothing. Always add acid to water, never water to acid. Apply the acid solution, let it fizz for two to five minutes, then scrub with a stiff brush and rinse thoroughly. The concrete should absorb water readily after etching: if water beads up, the surface is still sealed and requires additional etching or grinding.

For wood stairs, the prep sequence is inspect, repair, clean, and sand. Check every tread and riser for rot, soft spots, and nail pops. Countersink protruding nails and fill the holes with exterior wood filler. Soft spots in treads may indicate rot and should be treated with a penetrating wood hardener before filling. Sand the entire stair surface with 60 to 80 grit to remove loose or flaking paint, feather any paint edges, and open the wood grain. Sand with the grain direction. Vacuum the dust completely before priming.

For metal stairs, particularly steel structures that may show rust, the SSPC-SP2 hand tool cleaning standard is the minimum starting point. Wire brush all rusted surfaces to remove loose rust, mill scale, and failing paint. For accessible areas, a wire wheel on an angle grinder speeds this process significantly. After cleaning, treat any remaining rust with Corroseal Rust Converter or a phosphoric acid wash before applying a rust-inhibiting primer. Minimum primer dry film thickness on metal is two to three mils to provide meaningful corrosion protection. Apply the anti-slip topcoat after the primer has cured completely.

How to Paint Steps While Keeping Them Usable During the Project

A full set of stairs to an exterior entry cannot be taken out of service for 48 hours without creating a significant access problem. The staggered approach is the standard method for keeping stairs usable while coating them.

Apply coating to every other step on the first working day: steps 1, 3, 5, 7. Leave the even-numbered steps untouched. Mark the painted steps with tape and a note so occupants know which steps are wet. Allow the painted steps to cure to allow foot traffic, which takes 24 to 48 hours for most porch enamels at normal temperatures. On the second day, coat the remaining steps: 2, 4, 6, 8. This approach means occupants must step over treated steps during the cure period, which requires awareness but keeps the stair usable.

At temperatures below 50 degrees Fahrenheit, cure times lengthen significantly. Most porch and concrete coatings should not be applied below 50 degrees Fahrenheit (check the specific product for its minimum application temperature). If temperatures are expected to drop below the minimum within 48 hours of application, schedule the project for a warmer window. Paint applied near the minimum temperature and then subject to cold overnight temperatures before it has cured can lose adhesion permanently.

For a complete stair replacement where access is not feasible during cure, set up a temporary plank ramp alongside the stairs for the duration of the cure period. A standard 10-foot 2×12 board with cleats for grip allows safe foot traffic alongside the steps while the coating cures, then the ramp is removed.

Apply warning tape across the top and bottom of each freshly coated stair run and post written notice on both the interior door and exterior entry points so no one unknowingly steps onto wet paint. A foot impression in wet porch enamel cannot be smoothed out after the paint has begun to cure. It must be sanded out and recoated.